Belts are a Bane...to the fingers...

Over the last few months I have been working to create a Jedi costume for Saber Guild.

As I drafted what I wanted the costume to look like, I fell in love with the elegant design of an Imperial Knight belt. The only problems...such belts were out of my price range, and I'd never worked with leather before.

But I wasn't about to let that stop me! So off to the wonderland of craft stores I trekked, and out I marched arms full of fabulous goodies I had no idea how to use! What could go wrong?

I purchased:

a large roll of genuine leather (roughly 2'x4' for $50)

a round drive punch (5/32in for $12)

leather needles ($3)

waxed leather thread ($4)

screw together rivets ($3)

2in rectangular silver belt buckle ($5)

1in wide regular belt buckle ($3)

Step 1:I rolled out the leather and drew on the back side of the leather the outline of my belt. Then I traced out a 1in x 45in strip and a 2in x 45in strip for the middle and top layers of the belt. (I saw many recommendations to use an exact-o knife to cut the leather with....but I found an extra pair of fabric scissors and discovered those made a much cleaner cut.)

Step 2: I cut the 2in strip in half (so now I had 2 strips measuring 2in x 22.5in) and trimmed one end of each half into a triangular shape.

Step 3: I cut two 1in tall slits about and inch apart in each 2in strip about 2 inches from the pointed ends. Then wove the top layer belt through the slits so the top and middle layers were connected.

Step 4: I laid out the belt with all three layers and adjusted the spacing so I knew where my rectangular belt buckle and top two layers of the belt would line up on the bottom pointed layer. (this was where I discovered my 4.5in belt width for my bottom layer was too wide, so I cut it down to a 3.5in width on the sides and 6in width at the front point.)

Step 5: I googled how to use a drive punch. Then I measured and marked a spot to put a rivet that would hold all three layers of the belt together at the point of each middle layer.

Step 6: Using my hammer, drive punch, and a cutting board to protect my table, I made my holes and used the screw together rivets to secure all three layers together. Then I made a hole for the belt buckle (bending the metal hook down to secure it to the leather of the top layer) and cut a slit through the bottom layer of the belt to slide the belt hinge through, so the front rectangular buckle didn't flop all over the place.)

Step 7: I held the belt around my waist and marked a place at the back of the belt to secure the middle and bottom layers of the belt together. Punch a hole in the middle layer. Measure again and mark through the existing hole to determine where it lines up on the bottom layer. Punch your hole in the bottom layer. (My amazing mom helped with this part as I am not an octopus and unable to hold and twist about to mark something on my back, but if you don't have a helper, just try on the belt backwards and then you'll be able to see what you're doing. Sadly, this did not occur to me at the time....)

Note: It is important to make the mark while it is wrapped around your body as the holes will be slightly offset from each other when lain flat (something about the further circles are from a central point, the bigger the diameter of the circle becomes and other mathy stuff...)

I found three layers of leather filled my rivet really well, so with only two layer for this step, I followed a handy tip the brilliant lady at the leather store shared. Cut a small square piece of leather, punch a hole in it, and stick it between my other leather pieces. Like a little leather washer. Now I had three layers. Perfect fit.

Step 8: I loved the little detail of the indented line I saw outlining a lot of belts. So I found one of my metal tools used from molding clay and drug it across the leather. (This step is easiest with the belt not assembled)

Step 9: I attached the small belt buckle at the back to the top layer of the belt, securing it in place with a few rivets. Then I punched a few holes in the other side on the top layer of the belt.

I also cut the middle and bottom layers so they ended in the back about an inch away from the back rivet on those layers on one side and I had a little overlap to the other side of the belt.

Step 10: I measured a strip of leather and bent it around all the layers in the back to be my keeper to hide my back buckle. I used my drive punch to make holes in the leather before stitching the keeper together in a cuff around the belt

Step 11: Now my belt needed a pouch! And sure I could buy one for under $20, but I love making things. Besides I had a bunch of extra leather left over....It'd be a shame not to use it!

So I cut a strip 5in x 20.5in that would circle around to create the front, bottom, back, top and front flap of the main body of the pouch.

Step 12: I trimmed one end into a point for the top flap of the pouch.

Step 13: I cut a strip 1in x 3in to be the front hook, a strip 3in x 6in to be the back belt loop, and a 1.5in x 5in strip to be the front securing line. As well as some extra washer squares for where I would use rivets to secure the front hook, and back belt loop (used two rivets to secure each). Rivet the back loop and front hook to the main pouch body.

Step 14: I found some soft leather and cut two 2in x 7.5in strips to be the sides of my pouch. I cut a .5in square out of the bottom corners on each strip to create a seam allowance so I could fold the side and bottom up to make the boxed edge that would be the bottom end of the pouch.

Step 15: Then I used an awl to pre-punch some holes in the soft leather - About every 1/8 -1/4in along the front side, bottom, and back side of the side pieces (these will be in line with the .5 seam allowance). Then I used the awl to pre-punch some holes in the main leather for the pouch every 1/8-1/4in (lining up with the holes on the soft leather) along the edges of the front, bottom, and back of the pouch body.

Step 16: Stitch the soft leather sides to the main pouch body. I discovered I needed to sew some on one side and then do stitches on the other side - working evenly down the front, bottom, and back of the pouch. (This is where my fingers decided they will never hand sew leather ever again... Pre-punching those holes becomes very, VERY, important. Especially if you want to remain on good terms with your fingers.)

Step 17: Stitch the front securing line to the pointed end of the front flap.

Step 18: String the pouch onto the middle and top layers of your belt and put it on. Then go admire your handy work in the mirror.

Suffice it to say, I am very pleased with my end result. My belt is comfortable and feels secure. The pouch is large enough to carry a cell phone and small wallet. I have enough left over leather to make more pouches or another belt. (Though I will probably use rivets to make my next pouch instead of sewing...) And while my fingers might still be holding a small grudge for forcing them to hand sew the leather, I'm sure they will forgive me once I put the entire costume together!